The ViewLondon Review
Cafe Rouge has long been a reliable option for a meal – the old favourites are there on the menu, there are a few specials to choose from if you fancy branching out and the price is always pretty purse friendly. With the introduction of French regional dishes to the menu however, changes are afoot at this Covent Garden branch of Cafe Rouge.The VenueLocated on a street at the back of Covent Garden Piazza, this branch of Cafe Rouge feels like a neighbourhood restaurant – no mean feat in such a tourist saturated area. The cream and red, brass and dark wood brasserie style is typical of all restaurants in the chain and small tables for two are interspersed with banquette seating for larger groups. In fact everything is reassuringly familiar with the exception of the menus which have been given an overhaul and now are a smaller, more manageable size.
The AtmosphereAn affable mix of after work diners and families with small children ensures that the restaurant has an easygoing air which is helped by the perpetually smiley staff. They’ll happily advise on the menu and the wine list if you don’t fancy the recommended wine listed beside each dish on the regional section and service is prompt and professional.
The FoodA low terracotta dish piled with black and green olives is a good way to keep hunger pangs at bay whilst you decide what to order. For starters, the Terrine Maison is particularly good – the chicken liver pate isn’t too smooth and the onion and plum chutney match the strong flavours well. However, the French onion soup is less impressive as even though the soup is perfectly seasoned with rings of onions swimming in a deliciously thick broth, the expected melted Gruyere crouton actually arrives as a thick slice of bread with some grated cheese on top that slowly descends into the soup as it becomes more saturated. Worse still, it covers the surface like a lid, taunting you as you try your best to dip your spoon into the soup beneath it. A frustrating and futile attempt.
The main course regional dishes are only served at a few select Cafe Rouges of which the Wellington Street branch is one of three so far. The duck’s leg is so tender, thanks to the orange liqueur that it’s cooked in, that it practically walks off the bone for you and the slab of dauphinoise potatoes and French beans are served in healthy portions. The dauphinoise could do with being slightly crispier on the top but that said the balance of cream, garlic and potato slices in the dish is perfectly judged. The chicken is just as good. Again, served with potatoes (this time roasted) and French beans, the Poulet et Roquefort (£11.95) is one of France’s much feted dishes hailing from the Languedoc region. The chicken is plump and tender and the blue cheese sauce is a perfect partner as it’s diluted with enough cream to prevent the strong tasting Roquefort from being too overpowering.
Desserts cover the spectrum of comfort eating from a banana filled pancake served with warm chocolate sauce to the traditional French apple tart, Tarte Tatin, both of which are served with vanilla ice cream. There are lighter sorbets and ice cream and a platter of French cheese also available but if you want to sample a few desserts it’s worth opting for the trio of desserts - a scoop of chocolate ganache (a mix of rich dark chocolate that’s so smooth it’ll slide down into even the fullest of stomachs) and small pots of creme brulee (which tastes spot on but could do with being slightly warmer) and the red fruit crumble (the stand out with a buttery crumble and piles of berries just the right side of tart).
The DrinkIf your budget won’t stretch to one of the more expensive bottles of wine then you’re best off following the French and opting for a glass of Kir (white wine that’s had the edge taken off with a small amount of creme de cassis, peche or framboise). Wines wind their way around the best French vineyards from Fleurie and Gamay wine to Pinot Noirs and Merlots but if you’re on a budget you’re in the right place as a decent bottle of house red or white will only set you back £12.50.
The Last WordFriendly service, tasty regional French food and its homely atmosphere make Cafe Rouge in Covent Garden a good option whether you’re out for a quick meal after work with friends or a fun family lunch.
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