Angel Court,
The City,
London,
EC2R 7HB
(020) 7600 0992
The ViewLondon Review
The popularity of Haymarket’s Mint Leaf is undeniable, thanks to its posh cuisine and trendy, clubby atmosphere. Not content to rest on their laurels, however, they’ve opened up a new City location, but will it have the same draw as the Central London favourite?The VenueKeen to reach a new side of the capital’s dining experience, the folk behind Mint Leaf have chosen the City as their second site. Just a few minutes walk from Bank tube station, the venue is centrally located for all the people who work in the area and does double duty as both cocktail bar and restaurant. As you walk through the doors, the lounge is towards the left and the restaurant towards the right, with the bright and shining bar straight ahead, its multi-coloured bottles of liquor lit up like beacons, grabbing the attention of those clamouring for a cocktail.
The lounge area is low key and relaxed, with low sofas, squashy cube seats and tables decorated with futuristic, semi-circular metal lamps. Slatted wooden dividers give those enjoying a cocktail a bit of privacy, although it’s easy to get a peek at the open kitchen area and check out the chefs preparing starters and bar food along the far wall. The restaurant side of the venue is a bit more basic in decor, but for a small area they’ve managed to pack in quite a few tables without it seeming crowded. The lofty ceilings give off an almost cathedral-like sense of space (enough for a separate mezzanine, at least) and the textured pebble and slate walls mix things up a bit.
The AtmosphereDespite just recently opening, the new Mint Leaf is already proving popular with the City crowd. Even early on in the week the venue is respectably about half-filled, and although the Haymarket location is known for its trendy patrons there’s room here for all kinds of Londoners. The staff here get it just right with a combination of friendliness and professionalism, and they’re particularly helpful with suggestions so don’t hesitate to ask if you can’t make up your mind.
The FoodLike its sister restaurant, the second location has a predominantly Indian menu and depending on how you order you can settle in for a long three course meal or just grab a few small plates to share. Many of the dishes are available in large and small sizes and whilst the prices are high (most starters approach the £10 mark and mains can reach the mid-twenties) many people in the area won’t think twice about shelling out.
Starters kick things off nicely with a plate of duck kebabs, with an interestingly crumbly, almost pate-like texture. These are well spiced but the piquancy is tempered by the sweet onion sauce on top, and if you’ve kept your selection of chutneys from the poppadoms it goes really well with the seed-filled fig one. The lobster arrives as two good-sized tails, mostly shelled, and is seasoned with over a dozen different spices, including garlic, cloves and chilli. However, if you’re used to having buttery, garlicky lobster you may want to give this one a pass, as the spices give it a very dry taste.
Mains include an inventive selection of curries, about as far as you can get as possible from the traditional UK favourites. The lamb shanks with onion and vetiver root are served on the bone and are extremely tender, and the spicy gravy they’re in is perfect for mopping up with some naan. The prawn curry is nice as well, with a good portion of peppery, medium-sized prawns in a creamy, pale yellow coconut sauce. Accompaniments include naan (light but doughy wholemeal and sweet and chewy red pepper varieties) and basmati rice (plain steamed and saffron-enhanced baked versions). A side dish of Romanesco broccoli with water chestnuts is surprisingly spicy, the romanesco crisp and fresh and the water chestnuts fried so that they're almost potato-like.
The list of desserts is very tempting, but if you’re on the full side and still want to sample some, go for the sharing platter. Presented on a square black plate, the desserts come in a striking rainbow of colours and taste as good as they look. The peach poached with basil is sweet and succulent and a beautiful rosy pink – decadent enough to make you feel like you’re eating something other than fruit. Green tea panna cotta has a nice firm texture, with the bitterness of the green tea complemented by the rich and sugary cream. Also included on the plate are a deep purple mixed berry ice cream and an orange sorbet complete with tangy pieces of zest.
The DrinkThere’s a large and creative cocktail menu here. Prices start at £9 and go all the way to £50 for an Ultimate Old Fashioned, made with Pyrat Cask 23, demerara sugar and Fee Brothers orange bitters. One of their signatures is the amusingly named Porn Star Martini (vanilla vodka, Passoa and passion fruit), which is sweet almost to the point of being sickly. On the side arrives a shot of Champagne that counteracts the cloying sweetness of the martini, making the perfect accompaniment. If you prefer the classics then the orange mojito appears in a huge glass, is perfectly balanced and as good as any you'll have had across London. Providing it’s not too busy, the bar staff will make you a bespoke cocktail if you tell them your preferences – don’t be surprised if they get it spot on.
As for wine, bottles start at about £20 but there are pricier options into the several hundred range if you’re out to impress. There are quite a few choices available by the glass as well, starting at £6. A bottle of Fleurie, a 2007 Beaujolais (£34), is a good option for a light red, with a crisp taste and an intriguing floral scent.
The Last WordA welcome new face in the neighbourhood, the Mint Leaf Lounge keeps the trendy atmosphere of its sister restaurant but has its own City spin.
Mint Leaf Lounge has been reviewed by 1 users