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The Londoner's Guide to London
08 January 2009
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Sophies Steakhouse

Venue Image
Venue Image
29-31 Wellington Street,
Covent Garden,
London,
WC2E 7DB

(020) 7836 8836 

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byTacita Vero'21/11/2008
Central, informal and stylish, Sophie’s Steakhouse is rightfully popular and always busy, a perfect choice for dinner with friends.

The Venue
The decor at Sophie’s Steakhouse is courtesy of Michaelis Boyd, the design team behind venues like the Electric Cinema and Babington House. Housed in a Grade II Listed art deco building, the restaurant’s interior is tidy, discreet and neutral, with bare brick walls rich burgundy leather banquettes, wooden tables and reclaimed metal luggage racks where you can store coats and briefcases. The most prominent elements are the clusters of lights hanging low over the tables which create an intimate atmosphere. A selection of the house special salami hanging near the bar adds a warm touch.

The restaurant spreads over an irregularly shaped room with large windows at the front and back and a skylight on the side. In the back room the open plan kitchen allows you to have a good look at how your food is being prepared, while not far from the entrance there’s a bar area that seats up to 80 people. The tables, of different sizes, are rather close together, giving the impression of friendly informality.

The Atmosphere
The informal seating arrangement and the uncomplicated menu promote a bustling, busy and noisy environment. Although they don’t take reservations, you can have a seat at the bar whilst you wait for a table. The crowd seems to be a mix of affluent professionals in their early 30s, and while not recommended for an intimate date, Sophie’s Steakhouse is ideal for an easy dinner between friends, especially as it’s open until 3am. Children are also welcome, and the kids’ menu is available all day. Owners Sophie Mogford and Rupert Power are at the restaurant every day, making sure everything runs smoothly.

The Food
The menu gets points for its conciseness (a single sheet comprises it all including the wine list on the back), informality and unpretentiousness: there are no fancy names or exotic ingredients, leaving space for well prepared, modern, honest fare. Within the starters (£5.25 - £9), you can choose from baby spinach salad with crispy bacon and avocado, calamari, chicken liver parfait and other classic known recipes, here presented at their best. The dressed Cornish crab salad, for example, is not only nicely presented and rather plentiful but also fresh, with a strong taste of crab and well picked spices. The same fresh quality can be tasted in the healthy portion of roasted vegetables, which are accompanied by a homemade pesto sauce.

Within the mains, steaks (£17.50 - £35) are the obvious highlight. If you’re massively hungry, choose either the 27oz Porterhouse, the 24oz Cote De Boeuf or the 20oz Chateaubriand for two. For something smaller opt for the 8oz fillet, the 10oz rib eye or 10oz contre filet. The rib eye is particularly thick and shows an excellent charred outer skin combined with tender marbled interior; even at medium-well, it remains juicy and tender. The meat is what you should expect from a good steakhouse: naturally raised in Scotland and Northern Ireland and dry aged for 28 days, it has a genuine, hearty taste and a healthy consistency.

Other options (£9 - £15.50) are lobster and avocado club sandwich, peppered steak salad, free range roasted chicken, tuna steak, cottage pie and more. For the vegetarians, the peasant pot is a very good option. It’s filled with vegetables that are not over-cooked but still pleasantly yielding, with butter and kidney beans and a nice spicy kick that’s lightened by the grated cheese on top. The presentation is good but not overly elaborate: the food is meant to speak for itself and surely it does! After a starter and a main course, it will be hard to find room for a side dish (£2.50 - £4), but some are definitely worth trying. The onion rings are divinely sweet, oily and crispy and the mashed potatoes are as creamy and light as they should be.

And if you have a tiny bit of room, you can dive into the selection of puddings (£4 - £6). They all have a distinct honest quality and it is clear no shortcuts are taken to get the right consistency. Recommended options include the mousse-style cheesecake and the apple crumble, which has a sharp aftertaste thanks to the use of fresh apples.

The Drink
Sophie’s Chelsea location is known for its cocktails, and their Covent Garden venue’s list is small but well organized around classics and classics with a twist. The martinis are their specialty, and, alongside the mojitos, are served in 10oz glasses (£6.50 - £10), including the delightful Kiki’s Mojito (with raspberries and pineapple juice) and a fresh cucumber and mint martini. Other options are the Champagne (£8.50), long (£6.50), classic (£6 - £10), virgin (£4.50) cocktails and a few shooters (£5).

Over a steak, though, you will want to look carefully into the wine list, populated by many dark and plumy reds, ideal to accompany a rib eye or fillet. Bottles range from £13 to £56 with a few half bottles and glasses available, the latter for £4 to £5.25. Most are new world and classic grape varieties but there are a number of interesting blends: pick from the intense Chateau Bellevue 2005 AC Bordeaux, the affordable Primitivo Di Puglia or the American Cabernet Sauvignon Vaquero. Their recommendation, though, is the Angus 'The Bull' Cabernet Sauvignon from Australia, ideal over a meaty steak. Just as suitable is the white wine list with rose and Champagne to complete the menu.

The Last Word
You don’t need to be a big fan of steak to enjoy Sophie’s Steakhouse and Bar. If you want to have dinner and drinks in a comfortable and buzzy environment, this restaurant is highly recommended for its quality steaks, good food and informal atmosphere.
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